Octopied

Pain levels high tonight, so occtopying myself with painting.

Octopied

Octopied1

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11 thoughts on “Octopied

  1. *insert punnery riff on “octopation”*

    I wish I could freehand like that.
    *sigh*
    I cannot draw for spit, without a graph grid. Even if I have to measure and draw the grid on myself, first. Pencil lead everywhere. :(

  2. Oh, I’m not freehand with the paint – I freehanded the octopus in pencil, first. I don’t like fucking up in paint. Have you tried the grid thing one square at a time, blocking off the others with black paper? It can be really difficult for people to stop seeing the picture, and just see lines.

  3. What I frequently end up doing, is to draw first on small-grid graph paper—’cause it seems I can only do small—, then draw a grid in pencil on whatever I’m working with (usually small wooden boxes, or needle cases, or things like that), then copy on a square-by-square basis onto that grid; pretty up the jerkiness of the lines, and paint with a Very Small Brush in whatever color seems most sensible—sometimes just barely darker than the color of the mostly-wood I’ll be painting; then erase the pencil marks (and grid).

    My Most Annoying Problem with this approach is that graphite does get trapped by my painted lines, and then doesn’t want to erase, leaving ugly bits to deal with as best I can—and that some wooden surfaces just don’t want to let it go, either. If I could freehand, at least erasing a grid wouldn’t be a problem.

    For the longest time, I transferred my design with carbon paper, but that leaves ugly smudges all over the place, and the graph-paper-and-carbon “unit” has a nasty tendency to wallow around as I trace over the design.
    :( :( :(

    Tee shirts and bigger things are snakes of a different color (more venomous!), because pencil marks don’t want to erase out, and sometimes stay even after washing. I’ve had some luck with using a small light box under the fabric to shine up through the design—but then, of course, the graph lines shine through just as strongly.
    :(

    (Apologies for bending your ear, er, eyes, at such length—but it’s just so frustrating, and I’m really regretting having diligently filled my education with sciences at the expense of arts-and-crafts (could’ve done both, dummy!), and The Husband doesn’t understand my distress, and it’s a relief to unload it all. Sorries!)

  4. Before painting, use a ‘pillow’ eraser, gently, until you have the barest line visible to follow. If you use a strong enough paint, you shouldn’t have line problems. As for fabric, use a Clover water erasable marker – looks like a blue felt tip, and dissipates completely when sprayed with water. Great thing, those. Prior to using a lightbox (I use one often, too!), tape down your grid design, then place tracing paper or thin white paper over, trace it, then tape it to the lightbox for transferring to fabric.

  5. A “pillow” eraser? This is some unusual type? That Clover marker looks like just the ticket, though! And reasonably priced! I must acquire one!

    I’ve tended to be wary of markers and transfer papers that claim to just wash out—having had bad experiences with both. I was once doing a white “Kilroy was here” dragon line-drawing onto a quilt square…and the purple transfer stuff did not, in fact, wash out. At all. There it squatted, all purple and obvious, and resisting cover-up with repeated over-paintings of the lines.

    I was quite peeved.

    The Artograph projector looks like a fine thing, but is too spendy for my blood—I don’t do enough big stuff to justify it. That marker, though…thanks for the tip!

  6. Uh, in drafting supplies – a soft eraser in cloth, squishable. Yep, most transfer markers won’t come out as advertised – the clover water soluble does, though.

  7. I see from reading at your linky that my experience with the Dritz pencils is not unique to me. Much as I hate to rejoice in another’s misfortune, I am comforted that it’s not that I’m simply too dim to understand and correctly follow instructions!

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